ARISE, AWAKE AND STOP NOT TILL THE GOAL IS REACHED

After our last year's (2004) visit to Kumaon Region of the Himalayas, we were looking for an opportunity to take the next chance to go out again to the hills and this time in the Garwal Region. We had to let go an opportunity during my daughter's summer vacation as a cousin of mine came and stayed with us to complete his energy project under IREDA. The next opportunity we got was her autumn break. As the number of days available were few, we thought of going to a nearby place for 6-7 days. We decided to visit Chamba and if possible, Dhanolti. We zeroed in on Chamba, a relatively unknown place to the tourists, situated in Tehri District of Garwal, keeping in view my memory of a short visit in the year 2003. That time I had gone alone. I liked Chamba because of its quiet location and of course, the view of the snow capped Himalayan range.

On Saturday, the 1st October, 2005 we reached New Delhi station to board the Jan Satabdi Express bound for Dehra Doon via Haridwar. We reached Haridwar around 8.30 p.m. We intended to stay at the Loknath Baba Ashram at Bhupatwala but the auto drivers said it was a far off place and they would charge Rs. 120/-to take us there. As we had to catch a bus next day early morning for Chamba, we decided to stay in a nearby Guest House/Dharmasala. We took a ricksaw and told the ricksaw puller to take us to a good guest house. He took us to a Dharmashala which turned out to be a place for which the ricksaw puller would get 10% commission on the amount charged to the guest. After spending a troubled night in the guest house we boarded a bus next morning bound for New Tehri via Chamba. We made certain enquiry as to when the bus would start and at what time it would reach Chamba. I found the conductor and the bus driver were not very cooperative. They just said to get in and it would start at 7 a.m. we had little tea at the bus stop itself and occupied the front seat. The journey to Rishikesh took about 1 hour and it halted at Rishikesh for another hour. Our patience was wearing out but we did not want to get into argument with the driver. We kept our cool. However, after this the driver drove the bus with good speed and we reached Chamba at 12.30 p.m. Each one carried his/her rucksack and started walking towards the Garwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Guest house (GMVNGH) where we had our room booked over internet. The walk made us perspire in an otherwise cold weather. My wife was complaining that our bringing of warm closes have been in vain. I told her just to wait till we reach the top of the hill. By the time we reached the guest house we started feeling the sweet coolness enveloping us completely.

We looked around and all our exhaustion started vanishing like the due drops before the rising sun. The location of the guest house is at an altitude of 1950 meter while the Chamba town is at 1550 meter. This extra height gave us a wonderful view of the surrounding Tehri and Bhagirathi valley. There was no manager available at the guest house. This has been the case in a number of govt. run guest houses where we stayed in our earlier tours. The Chowkidar/Cook allotted us the most beautiful room having opening to the east, south and west. It was a very big room for a family of three with necessary fixtures and fittings. My wife appreciated the accommodation and settled happily for the next four days -our temporary home. We refreshed ourselves with a cup of tea and went round seeing the valleys and numerous birds that hovered around the guest house.

After a nice bath in hot water, we were ready for lunch. The lunch was prepared by the cook as per our chosen menu. The long corridor of the guest house on the first floor gave us enough space to take walk while watching the surrounding hills. We were the only guest at that time. The serenity, seclusion and the quiet environment gave us added privilege to live in communion with nature.

Having finished our lunch, we sat in the sun for a while and enjoyed the warmth that the sunlight was transmitting. After about 3 O'clock the wind started gaining in speed and turned cold. It was time to have some rest after the long bus journey.

In the evening we visited a Shiva temple standing isolated at an edge of a hill. We wanted to have a long walk and went down to the market while enjoying the view of the distant hills. By the time we came back to the guest house it was already evening. The sky displayed its jewels full of stars and planets. The quiet became quieter. The chilly wind blew with a whistling sound making our stay outside difficult.

We finished our dinner at 8.30 p.m. and my wife and daughter slipped into the room but I was outside listening to nature's music being played by the silent musician. The lighting of the distant villages looked like distant stars twinkling. I always carry a small radio to listen to the news. News over, I also got into the room and watched TV for some time and went to bed. Our next day programme was to go to Surkunda Devi Temple some 20 Km. away from Chamba.

Next day after heavy breakfast we went down to Chamba town to catch a bus going to Moosouri via Khaddukhal where we were supposed to alight and climb up the hill top where the temple is situated at a height of 3030 meters. The bus travel through the dense forest with now and then the icy caps of the Himalayas being visible was a wonderful experience. We reached at the base of the Surkunda Devi Temple around 11.30 a.m. and we saw the board of the temple inviting us to take the path about 2 Km.leading to the temple perched on the top. The trekking was quite steep passing through open area and as well through jungle. Fortunately there were a number of stalls providing cold drinks, tea and snacks of course in exchange of some fortune. As we were going up and up the view of the surrounding hills displayed the silent beauty while the clouds kept our company throughout. The trekking was very exhaustive. but surprisingly, our daughter could also do it with joy. Of course for this we had offer her cold drinks on the way to encourage her continue trekking. It took about two hours to reach the top. Interestingly, the sight of the tall BSNL tower located by the side of the temple attracted more attention than the Surkunda Devi Temple. This, I suppose, an indication how science is going to be an essential part of life. Perhaps we could do without God but not without science. While the faithful visit this temple at such a height more because of their faith in the Divine Power of the Goddess, the scientific minded people visit this location for its height having a unique advantage of a wonderful view of the Himalayan panorama. However, a brief history of Surkunda Devi Temple will not be out of place here.

Surkhanda Devi Temple, goes the legend, was built on the site where the head of Shiva's consort fell after it was chopped off to stop Shiva?s terrifying dance of death that was shaking the universe to its very core. (I think it is allegorical and nor in physical form). However, our religious books are full of such legends inspiring wonder with awe.

The decend was very fast and took about one fourth of the time we took for ascending. Reaching at the base we found there were a number of jeeps bound for Chamba. We got into one of them and alighted at a point before the jeep reached the market place. We took the winding way to the guest house and reached there around 3 P.M. To our surprise we found the food was not ready in spite of our telling them in advance. It seems they thought we might have had lunch somewhere else. Any way, food was ready within half and hour. After lunch we sat in the sun enjoying the cool breeze and watching the birds and the far off Himalayan panorama. The ticking of time does not seem to have any power in the seclusion of nature. It looks like time has frozen for ever, eternity is here to stay. We enjoy this illusion as long as the sun is in the sky radiating its warmth. But as soon the sun set, the weather became so cold that remaining outside was difficult. The breeze turns into a storm. The quietness converted into a turbulent weather. Very soon the fog covered the whole area and nothing beyond a few yards remained visible.

The TV kept in the room is now switched on. Our daughter always love to enjoy TV programmes at home and thus at the first opportunity when there was nothing else to do, to switch on the TV is the most common entertainment these days. Myself outside on the long corridor took a walk and listened to the radio. By 8.30 p.m. it is time for dinner. Finishing the dinner fast, we huddle together to chalk out the programme for the next day - our visit to Tehri dam, Old Tehri town and the new one. We planned to take our lunch at the GMVN Guest house in New Tehri. Then it was time to go to bed and soon we were asleep.

New morning, the 4th October, 2005 after a cup of tea, we finished our morning bath and we were ready by 9 a.m. to have breakfast. Our destination was Old Tehri and later on to New Tehri. Alu ki parantha was the only thing the cook could provide us as breakfast. Never mind, we are not here to have food of our liking but to employ our precious time to feel the breath of nature, to see its grandeur and gigantic form. The Tehri Dam built on Bhagirathi river, one of the tributaries of the Ganges at a height of 670 meter and at a cost of Rs. 10,000/- crore to harness the power of the surging river and produce electricity while keeping the ecological balance of the region in tact ( a controversial claim) is a human marvel indeed.

For the last time we saw the old Tehri town which was scheduled to be submerged by the Ganges water very soon. We felt very sad to know that town with her 150 years of existence will no longer be visible to the eyes but would lie beneath the water perhaps for ever. With a heavy heart amidst flying dust we boarded a bus bound for New Tehri. The bus started climbing the adjacent hill leaving behind the old Tehri. After about half an hour journey upward we entered the new Tehri township built in a planned way. It looked like a modern city having all the amenities that one may ask for. We were advised to get down at Borai stop where the newly built GMVN guest house is situated. It was arranged to have lunch at the guest house. we were scheduled to reach there around 2 O'clock but by the time we reached there it was 4 O'clock. But the most wonderful thing was that the staff members were eagerly awaiting our arrival. As soon as we arrived we were welcomed as if we were VIPs. Our table was laid immediately and fresh and warm food was served with love and respect. After lunch we were shown the type of accommodation available there by the Manager. After formal greetings we left the guest house for Chamba. Of course, Chamba is unique because of its location. By the time we reached our guest house at Chamba, the sun had already set closing down the curtain on another day from our life.

With a cup of tea we got ourselves refreshed. Our next day's programme was to relax and just to visit near by places on foot and get our clothes in order. Here one wonderful thing that happens that after the sun set, the breeze becomes colder and picks up speed. We had to rush to our room to avoid the chill wind. After an early dinner around 8.00 O?clock we went to bed and watched TV programme for a while.

I forgot to note here that for complete two days there was no electricity and the consequent water problem on the first floor did create some ripples in the placid lake of quiet living. However, we could manage with whatever water was made available to us. Never mind, that was a minor irritant which failed to dampen our spirits.

In the morning after our breakfast we went to visit the Shiva Temple and the Pujari was there to invoke blessings of God for us. We also watched a number of wild flowers blooming all around without any human care. It is really a wonder to see how the nature gives its best to human beings without asking for any return. Of course, there are times when the nature turns into a destroyer without any sympathy for the human beings. We also met a few primary students playing on their school ground. They were very shy when we told them to pose for a photograph. Finally only a few of them came and stood with us for a photo session.

On our way back we saw another guest house by name Akash Lok. The manager was standing at the entrance of the guest house. He invited us to see his facility and we accepted his invitation. With great warmth he showed us the whole guest house and also offered us a cup of coffee which we politely declined. This is the same manager who told us earlier when we just arrived at Chamba and heading towards the GMVN Guest house that all rooms of that guest house were sold. In actual sense it was fully lying vacant. We were the only guests to have occupied the guest house on that day. Thank God we did not listen to this man's entreaty. I was also wondering at the human behaviour how easily one can tell a lie as if it were the Truth.

After reaching our guest house we looked at it once again. We were convinced that this guest house could be the best bet in Chamba given it's excellent location, facilities and the view around. Of course, there is another Hotel situated on another hill top but away from Chamba plus its cost is much higher than the one we are presently occupying. In all respect this one is the best in Chamba. Thus we felt happy.

We sat on chairs and tried to absorb the nature's silence while our daughter went around the place with a little puppy. Here just to be in the sun and looking at the Himalayan range is itself a meditation. The God of man transcends its narrow image into the vast range of mountains and sky. One is reminded of man's littleness before the awe inspiring nature. For millions of years even before human beings came on earth through complex evolutionary process, the nature existed with all its grandeur. We are transitional species but what has made us a unique one is the human endeavor to reach out to the unreachable, to know the unknowable. Contd. II